The Best Megrelian Kharcho in Tbilisi
Megrelian kharcho is one of the most distinct dishes of traditional Georgian cuisine. But it’s also among the ones that tend to confuse people the most often. For many, the word “kharcho” brings to mind a thin beef soup with tomato and rice. This is largely due to the influence of the Soviet-era public eateries, where the so-called “soup kharcho” appeared on menus far more often than authentic Megrelian kharcho with walnuts. Over time, the name became strongly linked to one specific dish, while partially detaching from the original traditional recipe.
That said, Megrelian kharcho that’s the older version of the dish, authentic to the traditional Georgian cuisine. Historically, in Samegrelo, the dish was used to highlight the host’s social status and pay special respect to particularly honored guests. High-quality walnuts and tender beef were expensive ingredients, and even well-off households could not afford to prepare kharcho on a daily basis. So it was usually only served to the table during major celebrations or for guests of notable standing.
The costs were largely the reason behind the emergence of soup-style kharcho as a separate dish. The soup shares a similar flavor profile and uses some of the same ingredients, like meat, walnuts, tklapi (Georgian-style sour fruit leather) or vinegar for acidity. But it requires fewer resources to prepare. Traditional Megrelian kharcho is not a soup at all; it is a thick, rich stew. Its consistency strictly depends on using a generous amount of walnuts and its fats, not water or broth.
In the modern Georgian hospitality industry, preserving traditional dishes’ authentic form is one of the main challenges. Preparing proper walnut kharcho requires high-quality, costly ingredients, and, the expenses are, unfortunately, something many restaurants can be reluctant to commit to. The Tsiskvili restaurant's goal is to offer guests authentic traditional flavors, reflective of traditional standards. This one is no exception: if you visit us, rest assured, you’ll be served one of the best versions of kharcho in Tbilisi, one that reflects the authentic heritage of Megrelian cuisine.
What Standards Should Authentic Megrelian Kharcho Meet?
The first and most important ingredient in a traditional Megrelian kharcho is walnuts. Unlike many other walnut-based dishes where the main protein (be it beef, chicken or turkey) still dominates, in kharcho it’s the walnut flavor that’s at the forefront. The taste, thickness, and texture of the dish depend largely on both the quality and the quantity of walnuts, which is why traditional recipes tend to be quite strict about what kind of nut to use and how much. The walnuts must be light in color, fresh, and have noticeably high oil content (kernels should slightly glisten). If the kernels are old, dark or dry, the dish will develop an unpleasant color and a bitterness that no spice will be able to successfully mask.
The second essential condition of the traditional recipe is the precise proportion of spices. Most important among them is Georgian saffron (yellow marigold), which gives Megrelian kharcho its characteristic golden hue and sharp aroma. Utskho Suneli (blue fenugreek) is another non-skippable ingredient, responsible for enriching the flavor of the stew. Interestingly, it also helps to bind the walnut mixture through its interaction with walnut oils. Garlic is another key ingredient, adding the characteristic sharpness to the dish. Older family recipes may also include additional spices like coriander, crushed or smoked paprika, and other aromatic elements, though they aren’t consider a must.
How good the kharcho tastes in the end heavily depends on successfully balancing these spices carefully. Neither can dominate the others; instead, they should work together to create a deep, rich flavor.
The third crucial factor is adding the correct amount of acidity. Traditionally, Megrelian kharcho was prepared with tkemali tklapi (Georgian sour fruit leather) or, more rarely, vinegar. Tomatoes only began appearing in recipes in the 19th century, first only as an add-on. Though with time some recipes started completely replacing the traditional acidic components with them. This evolution ultimately made tomatoes a mandatory ingredient in soup kharcho. That said, authentic traditional Megrelian kharcho should not include tomatoes.
The “Tsiskvili” Kharcho: Traditional Recipe and Modern Quality
At Tsiskvili, kharcho preparations begin with the walnuts. Our standards are strict: walnuts must be shelled and ground on the same day as kharcho is cooked. If processed earlier, exposure to air leads to oxidation, causing the nuts to lose essential oils and potentially develop bitter flavor.
Though at home some may swap it for chicken or pork, traditional Megrelian kharcho is kharcho with beef and should use tender, lean cuts for the best flavor. Family recipes often disagree on how the meat should be prepared: some call for it to be boiled first and then transferred to the sauce, while others strictly forbid pre-boiling and require the meat to cook directly in the sauce.
Historically, pre-boiling was simply a way to maximize the use of an expensive ingredient, since the resulting broth could be used in other dishes. For the richest flavor, however, the meat should be slowly simmered over low heat directly in the sauce. The longer it cooks, the better it absorbs the flavors of walnuts and spices. Meat that has been boiled separately won’t fully absorb the sauce, so the final flavor will be less intense and rich.
When properly prepared, the pieces of meat should retain their shape despite long cooking, but tenderize to the point that a gentle press of a fork is enough to cut them.
What Should Megrelian Kharcho Be Traditionally Served With?
Traditionally, kharcho with walnuts is most often served alongside ghomi, a thick creamy cornmeal porridge, with a mild flavor that balances well with the fats and spice.
A heartier variation of the dish, elarji, is also a rather popular side dish to kharcho among Georgians. Elarji is a version of ghomi with a large amount of sulguni cheese melted into it during the cooking process. It has a stronger flavor and fattier texture, so experts generally recommend opting for classic ghomi instead. If neither ghomi nor elarji is served (some guests simply may not enjoy the cornmeal flavor or ghomi texture), shoti bread tends to be the go-to alternative.
Since Megrelian kharcho is a rich dish with an intense flavor profile, choosing the right beverage to go along with it is especially important. While Georgia does not have a traditional pairing for this dish, experienced sommeliers often recommend high-acidity white wines or traditional qvevri amber wines, if a guest wants something with more body. The acidity helps balance the dish’s fat content without adding heaviness, while the relatively lighter flavor works well not to overpower walnuts and spices. Popular choices include western Georgian varieties such as Tsolikouri and Krakhuna.
Although beef dishes traditionally tend to be paired with red wine, sommeliers advise caution in the case of Megrelian kharcho. The characteristic tannins of many red wines can have a negative reaction with walnuts and spicy seasonings, sometimes leaving a metallic or slightly bitter aftertaste. If a guest insists on red wine, lighter varieties with lower tannin levels, like Ojaleshi or Aladasturi for example, are a better option (though as tannin levels vary by producer, it’s always recommended to consult a sommelier at the restaurant about their specific wine card).
At our “Ethno Tsiskvili” restaurant guests can get a taste of what many consider one of the best kharchos in Tbilisi, prepared following the traditional recipes and using high-quality ingredients. To find the exact address of the restaurant, check the link. To reserve a table, call +995 032 2 00 55 55.
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